Flattery would normally be Sydney designer Mariam Seddiq’s response to being mistaken for an international luxury brand like Balmain, Oscar de la Renta, Valentino and Chloé.
Instead, frustration was the feeling experienced by Seddiq at seeing one of her cloud-like dresses appear alongside the latest Paris, Milan and New York runway looks in a document sent to celebrity stylists by another Australian label.
The image of a Seddiq dress, worn by model Sarah Ellen at Paris Fashion Week, appeared in a “spring racing capsule” from Melbourne label Atoìr. The 22-page document was sent to stylists and influencers in the lead up to Derby Day at Flemington Racecourse.
In the document, photos of international creations, plus Seddiq’s strapless pouf dress, on models and celebrities were accompanied by sketches by Atoìr’s design team, some with alterations.
A copy of the email from Atoìr shown to this masthead offers a range of sizes and colours for the designs to stylists: “Product details can be amended if you have preferences.”
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A stylist who recognised Seddiq’s signature style forwarded the document to the designer.
“I’m baffled by this,” Seddiq says. “It’s frustrating when you put all of your work into something and this happens.”
“I have been wanting to get some answers. Why do they think this is OK?”
Seddiq is one of Australian fashion’s quiet achievers and has dressed Delta Goodrem, Kelly Rowland, Rebecca Harding and Iggy Azalea. This month, Seddiq released an authorised collaboration with the more affordable brand, Sheike.
“I reached out to Atoìr and received a response where they admit they seek inspiration from international designers but in my case, they didn’t know it was a local designer. That doesn’t clear things up.”
Designer Mariam Seddiq and model Hanan at Australian Fashion week in May; Atoir designer Cynthia Farchione in 2020. Credit: Getty; Simon Schluter
“They said that these boards were just a starting point, but in my case they would not be moving forward with the dress as detail inspiration. I suppose that’s something.”
Atoìr was founded by Cynthia Farchione in 2017 and has launched collaborations with influencer Rozalia Russian and Myer model Lara Worthington. Before starting Atoìr, Farchione was the creative director of Asilio and Mossman clothing.
“Initial concept boards are only ever used for referencing product details, nothing would ever be replicated,” Farchione writes over email. “Extensive product development is actioned by the design team after this stage of the design process.”
Farchione was unavailable to respond to further questions relating to the detail of the sketches due to illness.
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Along with concern about the detail of the sketches in Atoìr’s document, Seddiq is worried about the potential damage to her brand by unauthorised references.
“That dress worn by Sarah Ellen costs $5500 and has boning to maintain its shape,” Seddiq says. “We don’t put any tulle in. There’s a lot of work.”
“I’ve had experience in the past of people copying designs that look inferior at a cheaper price and mislead my own customers.”
When it comes to protecting their work, designers in Australia can seek protection through a number of options, including registering their work. The registration of a design with IP Australia costs several hundred dollars.
The Designs Act allows a design to be registered with IP Australia up to a year after its release.
“I’ve spent so much money on lawyers in the past,” says Seddiq. “There’s not much that you can do. When you seek extra protection it ends up being thousands rather than hundreds of dollars.”
“It’s pretty rough out there.”
Atoìr is scheduled to appear on the runway on Friday at Melbourne Fashion Week. Mariam Seddiq’s clothes will be shown on Saturday.
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